Narrow escape and waterfalls

My last footstep on the South American continent was technically the last step I gave towards the customs officer on Sao Paulo Airport. For me however, it was the first step I took onto the Dutch KLM airplane that would take me to Schipol in the Netherlands and eventually on to Istanbul.

After my Amazonian river trip I spent a few days in Iquitos before flying back to Lima, the capital of Peru. The three days I spent there waiting for my flight to Foz de Içuasu in Brasil was spent watching the Copa America - The South American mini version of the world cup. I also finally got around to eating Peru's signature dish. 'Cerviche' is cold fish and octopus dish served with rice, rather humongous corn bits and peppers. The dish was extremely spicy and I was forced to buy 2 drinks to extinguish my now mangled taste buds. (A rather clever sales tactic I would later concede...)

Another nail biting incident was caused by my laundry. I had handed in my laundry to be washed the Friday afternoon, where I was informed that it would be ready Saturday at 6pm. It took me until Saturday 9pm to realize that I had forgotten to pick up my clean clothes, I rushed over, but as can be expected the laundromat was already closed for business... As the fates would have it the next day was obviously a Sunday and in Catholic Peru, the chances of a small business being open on a Sunday is quite slim indeed. The laundromat, of course, was closed. My international flight to Brasil the next day was at 12 in the afternoon. Knowing that it takes about 40min to get to the airport on a good day and up to an hour or more with traffic from where I was staying I reckoned that if I grabbed my washing at 8am I would make it before the 10am deadline for sure. No such luck. The laundromat wasn't to open until 9... I found myself in the precarious position of having to abandon 60% of my washing or missing my flight to Brasil. I chose the former as I hailed a cab at 9am. As the cab turned the corner I saw the owner opening the laundromat! In the same breath as I was shouting ESPARAR POR FAVOR!! I was leaping from the car and grabbing my bag of clean clothes, and more importantly, underwear... I made the airport with 7minutes to spare and was on my way to Brasil.

The town I stayed at - Foz de Içuacu, was the Brasilian Border town on Argentina next to the world's 2nd largest waterfall - the Iguazu waterfall. The waterfalls were indeed great and only by a slight margin greater than the breakfast I received each morning at the Green House Hostel, which included an assortment of cakes, fruits, scones, spreads and ham and cheese! It was probably the best value for money hostel I've stayed in in all of South America. I stayed there for 4 nights, and on Friday I flew off to Sao Paulo, from whence I left South America in search of Greener Islamic pastures. Turkey.

Conquering the Amazon

Herein follows the account of AJ Marais. Amazon conqueror. Here follows a word for word translation of my journal entries between 4 to 8 June 2015

4 June
"At about half past 9 we arrivied at the Henry harbour where we boarded the Henry 1 for 100 soles. We received our designated hammock spots on a deck specifically designated therefore. I had some initial difficulties with mine, becuase it was not taught enough. I remedied this by hanging it higher and therefore tighter."

"We set of at 14h30. Only 2 and a half hours over schedule! We are 5 gringoes on the boat - two Americans who both detest civilisation (or perhaps just american capitalism?) And a Frenchie. At dinner I realized that I had neglected to bring myself some cutlery. I will have to devise one from one of my plastic water bottles once I finish it. Until then, I'll make due with eating with my hands. All the water on the ship comes from the river, yet all the garbage generated on the boat gets dumped into it?? Immediately following dinner about 44 million mosquitos come out to play and you are forced to retire to your hammock and mosquito net at 6pm. It's not very comfortable to sleep in a hammock. I guess I still need to learn the inns and outs of it!"

5 June
"I did not sleep very well. I was awake at 5h30 due to the constant rattling of the engine room. Also because of the fact that no Peruvian in the immediate region owns a pair of earphones and feels inclimed to share his distasteful taste in 'chicha' music with everyone on board. Best alarm ever. Breakfast was disgraceful. A sweetish porridge with 3 dry buns. I ate the buns and dumped the porridge overboard. I'm not nearly as board as I thought I would be. For larhe parts of the day you lay in your hammock under the pretense that you are catching up on your journaling. Sometimes you fall asleep, but mostly you just stare at the moving bank with a strange sort of contentedness. Lunch was better, but I still had to eat with my hands. After lunch I invited all the gringoes up top for a bit of 'Ron' (Rum) and cola. After this I took my first shower in the very suspect river water, taking great care to keep my mouth and eyes tightly shut for the duration. Once again the mosquitos forced my hand at 18h00 and I was forced to retire to my hammock. This time in a more comfortable position - I'm getting better at this!

6 June
"I slept better than last night, but still woke up a few times. We received the same atrocity for breakfast again. Apparently it's oats. Chocolate oats. Over my dead body and overboard! From my finished bottle of water I fashioned myself a spoon type implement with which to eat. I performed admirably! After lunch it got really hot and humid and for the first time I got really agitated if someone even some much as grazed past my hammock or touched it. A lot of people seem to be getting off at every other stop except the people right next to me!"

"I decided to give my hand a go at poetry. I dedicated it to the boat and all its shenanigans. Basically all the absurdities I have observed so far."

7 June
"This day began like every other with blaring chicha music at 530. What a great way to start the day. Once again the rather ambitious 'porridge' found its way to the river instead of my stomach. After 'breakfast' we stopped at a local town where I bought myself a 'chucha' fish (kind of bottom feeder mudfish/catfish) for 4 soles. The fish's skin is as hard as an exoskeleton and the fish was surprisingly easy to eat. About an hour and a half out of this town, the barge sailed over the small boat we've been tugging along and had to stop to have it salvaged and 'dewatered'. I spent a long time tonight on the ship's upper deck listening to music and looking at all the pretty stars. Apparently we arrive in Iquitos at 2am tomorrow, but we're all definitely staying on board until at least 6am."

8 June
"Of course there was no need to set an alarm, because the 'chicha company' this time started playing their siren songs at 2am and kept going until 6am. Luckily, as the law of eventual immunity states that if something persists long enough, you will grow immune to it. I fell asleep till 5h30. We got on a boat taxi that took us (Sarah and I) to land and from there took a motorcycle taxi to the green track hostel, which was very pleasant. Through the morning I walked into town and subsequently booked my flight back to Lima on Friday and afterwards treated myself to my first proper hamburger in South America at the 'Texas Grill'. The 'Texas Grill' also had a bar upstairs to which Sarah and I adjourned to later that evening for Mexican cocktails"

Lima to Pucallpa to Iquitos

The following details the information gained from first hand experience the route to Iquitos. In the first section I will outline all the basic information of undertaking this adventure, followed by my own experience.

Pucallpa is one of the port towns from which you can purchase passage to Iquitos on a cargo barge. To get to Pucallpa from Lima, purchase a 90sole bus ticket from TEPSA bus company. Altough this 20odd hour bus ride is only semi cama, I can vouch that it was one of the best, modern and organized bus rides I have had in South America. Temperature control always works, the meals were excellent and the stewardess was extremely helpful and on the ball.

Once you arrive in Pucallpa the next morning, (roughly 9am) take a mototaxi and ask to go to the 'Puerto del Henries' (no more than 4soles) (port of the henries) and ask when the next one leaves, one usually leaves every second day. The Henry barges are one of the cargo companies that transport goods and people along the river. I've read that you should try and avoid the Henry 3 like the plague and that the Henry 8 and 6 are good choices. I embarked on the Henry 1, which was in my opinion doable and cost 100soles.

Take a day in Pucallpa to prepare for your 5day journey to Iquitos and stay a night. Your mototaxi will take you to a place either you know of or more likely, the one he receives commission for from the owner for bringing in clients.

Be sure to buy the following:

1. Hammock and rope to ajust your hammock AND hang your mozzienet.

2. Mosquito net (optional but I wouldnt have managed without it).

3. Insect repellent.

4. Water for the first 2 days (the boat stops at several villages along the way where you can restock. THERE IS NO DRINKING WATER ON THE BOAT).

5. Your own tupperware bowl and cutlery for the meals.

6. Dish washing soap.

7. Snacks (once again you can restock on basic snacks along the way).

8. Ample distraction aka reading material.

9. Some form of security with which you can lock your bags to a pole or bench near you so someone doesn't 'accidentally' wander off with your daypack or backpack (I bought myself a meter long chain and lock)

10. If you take strong drink with you, use with care as it has a habbit of dehydrating you quickly and without warning. Water being a resource that has to be managed carefully on board.

The hammock and mosquito net can be bought at Mercado 1, or ask your hospedaje owner where it can be bought. Depending on the size, mine was a large one, it shouldn't cost you more than 40, 45. When you get to the boat, someone will help you set up your hammock. Their judgement is usually sound and they will try and place you close to the windows for ventilation and the other 2 or 3 gringos present on the boat.

Once you get to Iquitos ask any mototaxi to take you to the plaza de armas, from where it should not be to difficult to secure accommodation. Flying dog and Green track hostals are both excellent choices for the boat weary traveler.

This trip has to be undertaken with a lot of open mindedness and a sense of adventure. There will be 120+ people on there sleeping in very close proximity to you. In the whole of Peru nobody seems to own earphones so there will be constant 'chicha' music blaring somewhere quite close to you. There will be 15 to 20 very young and cry-inclined children on board. But above all it is an adventure and an unforgettable experience to undertake in the far corners of Peru. I'll definately recommend doing it.

The last Hurrah

It's been an emotional few months in South America, especially the last month or so. From meeting the stumbling and bumbling young William way back in Santiago and nursing him successfully into South American manhood - up until the point that he could almost pronounce "Por Favor" correctly. The timid and laid back Dutchman, Adriaan and his accurate and sharp summations of the world around us. And then finally Troy. The Australian who always seemed at home with a beer in hand and muttering 'what the hell' and hilarious one liners. This traveling troupe of four has at long last come to an end. William moving on to Ica, Troy into Bolivia, Adriaan to Huarez and the prolific and brave South African onto the Amazon basin and origin. 

Conquering the Amazon and its estuaries will be my last great adventure on the South American Continent and arguably the toughest as well. I'm getting a bus to Pucallpa as I am busy writing this post. One of the river towns from which several cargo ships leave port to the major city of Iquitos 5 days away along the river. Iquitos is so remote and entrenched in the amazon that the ONLY way to reach it is by boat or by plane. There are absolutely no roads leading to it. The town came into its own as a rubber production and oil trading town. It takes roughly 5 days and 4 nights to get there by boat. A staggering 900km along the river. On this boat I will be sleeping in a hammock along with roughly 120 other passengers, fighting off tropical climate, insects and boredom. Passage will cost me roughly R400 with meals included and a space to hang my yet-to-be-purcahsed hammock. 

The following post will detail my passage to Iquitos. The city in the Amazon.