Lima to Pucallpa to Iquitos

The following details the information gained from first hand experience the route to Iquitos. In the first section I will outline all the basic information of undertaking this adventure, followed by my own experience.

Pucallpa is one of the port towns from which you can purchase passage to Iquitos on a cargo barge. To get to Pucallpa from Lima, purchase a 90sole bus ticket from TEPSA bus company. Altough this 20odd hour bus ride is only semi cama, I can vouch that it was one of the best, modern and organized bus rides I have had in South America. Temperature control always works, the meals were excellent and the stewardess was extremely helpful and on the ball.

Once you arrive in Pucallpa the next morning, (roughly 9am) take a mototaxi and ask to go to the 'Puerto del Henries' (no more than 4soles) (port of the henries) and ask when the next one leaves, one usually leaves every second day. The Henry barges are one of the cargo companies that transport goods and people along the river. I've read that you should try and avoid the Henry 3 like the plague and that the Henry 8 and 6 are good choices. I embarked on the Henry 1, which was in my opinion doable and cost 100soles.

Take a day in Pucallpa to prepare for your 5day journey to Iquitos and stay a night. Your mototaxi will take you to a place either you know of or more likely, the one he receives commission for from the owner for bringing in clients.

Be sure to buy the following:

1. Hammock and rope to ajust your hammock AND hang your mozzienet.

2. Mosquito net (optional but I wouldnt have managed without it).

3. Insect repellent.

4. Water for the first 2 days (the boat stops at several villages along the way where you can restock. THERE IS NO DRINKING WATER ON THE BOAT).

5. Your own tupperware bowl and cutlery for the meals.

6. Dish washing soap.

7. Snacks (once again you can restock on basic snacks along the way).

8. Ample distraction aka reading material.

9. Some form of security with which you can lock your bags to a pole or bench near you so someone doesn't 'accidentally' wander off with your daypack or backpack (I bought myself a meter long chain and lock)

10. If you take strong drink with you, use with care as it has a habbit of dehydrating you quickly and without warning. Water being a resource that has to be managed carefully on board.

The hammock and mosquito net can be bought at Mercado 1, or ask your hospedaje owner where it can be bought. Depending on the size, mine was a large one, it shouldn't cost you more than 40, 45. When you get to the boat, someone will help you set up your hammock. Their judgement is usually sound and they will try and place you close to the windows for ventilation and the other 2 or 3 gringos present on the boat.

Once you get to Iquitos ask any mototaxi to take you to the plaza de armas, from where it should not be to difficult to secure accommodation. Flying dog and Green track hostals are both excellent choices for the boat weary traveler.

This trip has to be undertaken with a lot of open mindedness and a sense of adventure. There will be 120+ people on there sleeping in very close proximity to you. In the whole of Peru nobody seems to own earphones so there will be constant 'chicha' music blaring somewhere quite close to you. There will be 15 to 20 very young and cry-inclined children on board. But above all it is an adventure and an unforgettable experience to undertake in the far corners of Peru. I'll definately recommend doing it.