Narrow escape and waterfalls

My last footstep on the South American continent was technically the last step I gave towards the customs officer on Sao Paulo Airport. For me however, it was the first step I took onto the Dutch KLM airplane that would take me to Schipol in the Netherlands and eventually on to Istanbul.

After my Amazonian river trip I spent a few days in Iquitos before flying back to Lima, the capital of Peru. The three days I spent there waiting for my flight to Foz de Içuasu in Brasil was spent watching the Copa America - The South American mini version of the world cup. I also finally got around to eating Peru's signature dish. 'Cerviche' is cold fish and octopus dish served with rice, rather humongous corn bits and peppers. The dish was extremely spicy and I was forced to buy 2 drinks to extinguish my now mangled taste buds. (A rather clever sales tactic I would later concede...)

Another nail biting incident was caused by my laundry. I had handed in my laundry to be washed the Friday afternoon, where I was informed that it would be ready Saturday at 6pm. It took me until Saturday 9pm to realize that I had forgotten to pick up my clean clothes, I rushed over, but as can be expected the laundromat was already closed for business... As the fates would have it the next day was obviously a Sunday and in Catholic Peru, the chances of a small business being open on a Sunday is quite slim indeed. The laundromat, of course, was closed. My international flight to Brasil the next day was at 12 in the afternoon. Knowing that it takes about 40min to get to the airport on a good day and up to an hour or more with traffic from where I was staying I reckoned that if I grabbed my washing at 8am I would make it before the 10am deadline for sure. No such luck. The laundromat wasn't to open until 9... I found myself in the precarious position of having to abandon 60% of my washing or missing my flight to Brasil. I chose the former as I hailed a cab at 9am. As the cab turned the corner I saw the owner opening the laundromat! In the same breath as I was shouting ESPARAR POR FAVOR!! I was leaping from the car and grabbing my bag of clean clothes, and more importantly, underwear... I made the airport with 7minutes to spare and was on my way to Brasil.

The town I stayed at - Foz de Içuacu, was the Brasilian Border town on Argentina next to the world's 2nd largest waterfall - the Iguazu waterfall. The waterfalls were indeed great and only by a slight margin greater than the breakfast I received each morning at the Green House Hostel, which included an assortment of cakes, fruits, scones, spreads and ham and cheese! It was probably the best value for money hostel I've stayed in in all of South America. I stayed there for 4 nights, and on Friday I flew off to Sao Paulo, from whence I left South America in search of Greener Islamic pastures. Turkey.

Conquering the Amazon

Herein follows the account of AJ Marais. Amazon conqueror. Here follows a word for word translation of my journal entries between 4 to 8 June 2015

4 June
"At about half past 9 we arrivied at the Henry harbour where we boarded the Henry 1 for 100 soles. We received our designated hammock spots on a deck specifically designated therefore. I had some initial difficulties with mine, becuase it was not taught enough. I remedied this by hanging it higher and therefore tighter."

"We set of at 14h30. Only 2 and a half hours over schedule! We are 5 gringoes on the boat - two Americans who both detest civilisation (or perhaps just american capitalism?) And a Frenchie. At dinner I realized that I had neglected to bring myself some cutlery. I will have to devise one from one of my plastic water bottles once I finish it. Until then, I'll make due with eating with my hands. All the water on the ship comes from the river, yet all the garbage generated on the boat gets dumped into it?? Immediately following dinner about 44 million mosquitos come out to play and you are forced to retire to your hammock and mosquito net at 6pm. It's not very comfortable to sleep in a hammock. I guess I still need to learn the inns and outs of it!"

5 June
"I did not sleep very well. I was awake at 5h30 due to the constant rattling of the engine room. Also because of the fact that no Peruvian in the immediate region owns a pair of earphones and feels inclimed to share his distasteful taste in 'chicha' music with everyone on board. Best alarm ever. Breakfast was disgraceful. A sweetish porridge with 3 dry buns. I ate the buns and dumped the porridge overboard. I'm not nearly as board as I thought I would be. For larhe parts of the day you lay in your hammock under the pretense that you are catching up on your journaling. Sometimes you fall asleep, but mostly you just stare at the moving bank with a strange sort of contentedness. Lunch was better, but I still had to eat with my hands. After lunch I invited all the gringoes up top for a bit of 'Ron' (Rum) and cola. After this I took my first shower in the very suspect river water, taking great care to keep my mouth and eyes tightly shut for the duration. Once again the mosquitos forced my hand at 18h00 and I was forced to retire to my hammock. This time in a more comfortable position - I'm getting better at this!

6 June
"I slept better than last night, but still woke up a few times. We received the same atrocity for breakfast again. Apparently it's oats. Chocolate oats. Over my dead body and overboard! From my finished bottle of water I fashioned myself a spoon type implement with which to eat. I performed admirably! After lunch it got really hot and humid and for the first time I got really agitated if someone even some much as grazed past my hammock or touched it. A lot of people seem to be getting off at every other stop except the people right next to me!"

"I decided to give my hand a go at poetry. I dedicated it to the boat and all its shenanigans. Basically all the absurdities I have observed so far."

7 June
"This day began like every other with blaring chicha music at 530. What a great way to start the day. Once again the rather ambitious 'porridge' found its way to the river instead of my stomach. After 'breakfast' we stopped at a local town where I bought myself a 'chucha' fish (kind of bottom feeder mudfish/catfish) for 4 soles. The fish's skin is as hard as an exoskeleton and the fish was surprisingly easy to eat. About an hour and a half out of this town, the barge sailed over the small boat we've been tugging along and had to stop to have it salvaged and 'dewatered'. I spent a long time tonight on the ship's upper deck listening to music and looking at all the pretty stars. Apparently we arrive in Iquitos at 2am tomorrow, but we're all definitely staying on board until at least 6am."

8 June
"Of course there was no need to set an alarm, because the 'chicha company' this time started playing their siren songs at 2am and kept going until 6am. Luckily, as the law of eventual immunity states that if something persists long enough, you will grow immune to it. I fell asleep till 5h30. We got on a boat taxi that took us (Sarah and I) to land and from there took a motorcycle taxi to the green track hostel, which was very pleasant. Through the morning I walked into town and subsequently booked my flight back to Lima on Friday and afterwards treated myself to my first proper hamburger in South America at the 'Texas Grill'. The 'Texas Grill' also had a bar upstairs to which Sarah and I adjourned to later that evening for Mexican cocktails"

Lima to Pucallpa to Iquitos

The following details the information gained from first hand experience the route to Iquitos. In the first section I will outline all the basic information of undertaking this adventure, followed by my own experience.

Pucallpa is one of the port towns from which you can purchase passage to Iquitos on a cargo barge. To get to Pucallpa from Lima, purchase a 90sole bus ticket from TEPSA bus company. Altough this 20odd hour bus ride is only semi cama, I can vouch that it was one of the best, modern and organized bus rides I have had in South America. Temperature control always works, the meals were excellent and the stewardess was extremely helpful and on the ball.

Once you arrive in Pucallpa the next morning, (roughly 9am) take a mototaxi and ask to go to the 'Puerto del Henries' (no more than 4soles) (port of the henries) and ask when the next one leaves, one usually leaves every second day. The Henry barges are one of the cargo companies that transport goods and people along the river. I've read that you should try and avoid the Henry 3 like the plague and that the Henry 8 and 6 are good choices. I embarked on the Henry 1, which was in my opinion doable and cost 100soles.

Take a day in Pucallpa to prepare for your 5day journey to Iquitos and stay a night. Your mototaxi will take you to a place either you know of or more likely, the one he receives commission for from the owner for bringing in clients.

Be sure to buy the following:

1. Hammock and rope to ajust your hammock AND hang your mozzienet.

2. Mosquito net (optional but I wouldnt have managed without it).

3. Insect repellent.

4. Water for the first 2 days (the boat stops at several villages along the way where you can restock. THERE IS NO DRINKING WATER ON THE BOAT).

5. Your own tupperware bowl and cutlery for the meals.

6. Dish washing soap.

7. Snacks (once again you can restock on basic snacks along the way).

8. Ample distraction aka reading material.

9. Some form of security with which you can lock your bags to a pole or bench near you so someone doesn't 'accidentally' wander off with your daypack or backpack (I bought myself a meter long chain and lock)

10. If you take strong drink with you, use with care as it has a habbit of dehydrating you quickly and without warning. Water being a resource that has to be managed carefully on board.

The hammock and mosquito net can be bought at Mercado 1, or ask your hospedaje owner where it can be bought. Depending on the size, mine was a large one, it shouldn't cost you more than 40, 45. When you get to the boat, someone will help you set up your hammock. Their judgement is usually sound and they will try and place you close to the windows for ventilation and the other 2 or 3 gringos present on the boat.

Once you get to Iquitos ask any mototaxi to take you to the plaza de armas, from where it should not be to difficult to secure accommodation. Flying dog and Green track hostals are both excellent choices for the boat weary traveler.

This trip has to be undertaken with a lot of open mindedness and a sense of adventure. There will be 120+ people on there sleeping in very close proximity to you. In the whole of Peru nobody seems to own earphones so there will be constant 'chicha' music blaring somewhere quite close to you. There will be 15 to 20 very young and cry-inclined children on board. But above all it is an adventure and an unforgettable experience to undertake in the far corners of Peru. I'll definately recommend doing it.

The last Hurrah

It's been an emotional few months in South America, especially the last month or so. From meeting the stumbling and bumbling young William way back in Santiago and nursing him successfully into South American manhood - up until the point that he could almost pronounce "Por Favor" correctly. The timid and laid back Dutchman, Adriaan and his accurate and sharp summations of the world around us. And then finally Troy. The Australian who always seemed at home with a beer in hand and muttering 'what the hell' and hilarious one liners. This traveling troupe of four has at long last come to an end. William moving on to Ica, Troy into Bolivia, Adriaan to Huarez and the prolific and brave South African onto the Amazon basin and origin. 

Conquering the Amazon and its estuaries will be my last great adventure on the South American Continent and arguably the toughest as well. I'm getting a bus to Pucallpa as I am busy writing this post. One of the river towns from which several cargo ships leave port to the major city of Iquitos 5 days away along the river. Iquitos is so remote and entrenched in the amazon that the ONLY way to reach it is by boat or by plane. There are absolutely no roads leading to it. The town came into its own as a rubber production and oil trading town. It takes roughly 5 days and 4 nights to get there by boat. A staggering 900km along the river. On this boat I will be sleeping in a hammock along with roughly 120 other passengers, fighting off tropical climate, insects and boredom. Passage will cost me roughly R400 with meals included and a space to hang my yet-to-be-purcahsed hammock. 

The following post will detail my passage to Iquitos. The city in the Amazon.

Tracing the Incas' steps

After leaving the Peruvian Town of Arequipa (a very uneventful adventure, so I'll leave it out) at 21:30 on Sunday the 17th of May, we arrived at the ancient Incan capital of Cusco the following morning at 07:30. The four of us (William, Adrian and Troy - a new Australian friend aquired in Arequipa) wasted no time in booking into the Wild Rover hostel. Our third and final Wild Rover. This of course meant that I had qualified myself to become a part of one of the most elite societies on earth - one who has successfully navigated and survived all 3 Wild Rovers. I received a tshirt to commemorate my success. An even more significant piece of news was that the BritsBrothers and the Australian trio would be rolling into town tonight after their 5day arduous trek to Machupicchu -the lost city of the Incas. Frederick Newton however informed me that they will only be arriving at 2am - to long a time to wait and stay awake to welcome them. All of us retired early that night.

The next day all of us, totalling 11, went to the Incan museum together. It was interesting enough - it is clear that the Incans were very fond of masonry work as well as not bothering to write down instuctions how to replicate the extraordinary masonry work! Freddie and I finished first and went to sit on the steps of the cathedral where we were approached by no less than 22 hawkers trying to sell us their wares. We got up and left after about 15min. That night we celebrated our reunion at the Wild Rover bar. Once again marked by dancing topless on the bar and crowd surfing.

Wednesday saw us a little more timid. We spent the day lounging and exploring Cusco's large local market. We had a meal there which cost us R24. This included diced beef stew, rice, fries, salsa and half an avocado! Value you'd be hard pressed to beat at home! I also got bamboozled into paying approximately R60 for a shoeshine! But that's to be expected if you do not settle on a price beforehand... We also started scoping around for a tour company who would take us to Machupicchu for the best price, but we couldn't locate one within our price range. We decided it be best if left for another day and celebrated our decision over a couple of beers...

A couple of beers later on Thursday, we finally got round to go see some better priced tour guides. We found one who for $180 would give us 4days, meals, accommodation, transportation, a guide, white water rafting, mountain biking and ziplining all inclusive. They would be picking us up at 07:30 the next morning. Today was also the day that I would be saying goodbye to the BritsBrothers for the foreseeable future, as we would not be meeting up again before I leave to Turkey end of June. It was quite an emotional day as they said goodbye to Chriswell as well - one of the Australian trio. We had one last big night in the Wild Rover's bar, including bit not limited to:
1. Singing Katy Perry's 'Firework' at the top of our lungs.
2. Telling off an annoying american girl who tried to impeach on our moment
3. Hugging numerous times
They were kicked out at 3am to go back to their hostel. Great night.

Friday. By 07:45 we were alreay on our way to our first destination on our 4day trek. We stopped at the top of a 4100m pass and were handed mountain bikes and disturbingly inadequate protective gear... I only did half before realising that I was going to kill myself. I had had to little sleep and wasn't concentrating on the road. I got off and proceeded the rest of the way in the van. The afternoon we did the white water rafting, which was pretty average considering my previous two experiences were on the mighty Zambizee and Nile rivers. Both of which consisted of grade 4 and 5 rapids. This river only had 2's and 3's...

Saturday = trek day. We did a 22km hike along the famous Inka trail. A road in the mountainside that the Incans built for their messengers to carry news to neighbouring regions. Along the way our guide proudly told us of how advanced the incas were and how they had knowledge about penicillin long before the Europeans did. One can only wonder how about 90% were killed off by spanish bacteria based diseases. Everybody lived in an equal society as well, never mind the human sacrifices and builder slaves used to build their cities. Nobody felt the need to correct him of course. Along the way we crossed the river in a locally operated pully system platform. We ended the day at a hot spring close to the town we would be staying that night. Heavenly.

Sunday = Funday. We started the day off with ziplining across the canyon we have been hiking up. It was really fun and we did a total of 5 zips, with the lines crossing the canyon in a Zigzag fashion. After that we got on a bus to a Hidro electric plant where we continued on foot for 3hrs to Aguas Calentes. The town at the foot of Machupicchu. The walk along the traintracks is mind bogglingly beautiful.  You hike through a rainforest with mountains towering above you. The town itself is no less of a wonder and was reffered to many times as having a similar feel to it as a ski resort would. On top of that it wasn't nearly as expensive as we thought it would be - with a litre beer costing a measly R32 at the shop? We had a three course meal that night at quite a posh restaurant, including a starter, a soup and a main course. There the guide told us that tomorrow we had to get up at 03:45 if we hoped to be first at the first check point leading up the 1600 Incan steps to Machupicchu... tomorrow was going to be a hard day. We went to bed early at 10pm

Monday. At 04:15 we qued outside the firat check point, almost at the very front, at the base of the mountain. There was that electric feel you get before any kind of race as everybody wanted to get up there first. At 5am the gates opened and we were off. After about 10min of climbing I horribly lost the track and started off on the gravel road the busses use to get up there. After about 500m I concluded that this could not possibly be the right way and doubled back to were I lost the steps. I found myself way behind my friends and did the rest of the climb in technical solitude. If not for my phone's music blaring in my ears I probably wouldn't have made it. Climbing 1600 steps ALL THE WAY without pieces of flats in between is excruciating. The hike was worth it though as I made it up there just before the first busses arrived at the top. We went into the excavation site and took many photos and saw many exceptional masonry works. And would you have guessed it - more steps, the Incans' favourite way of getting anywhere.

First Impressions

After we finished the Isla del sol and Copacabana, we moved across the border and into Peru. The next major town we came across is called Puno and is wholely uninteresting appart from its one and only tourist attracion - the floating islands of Uros. Will and I speculated that these islands must have come into existence to escape and flee from the Spaniards - a very popular Incan activity back in the day. We were later corrected by the tour guide - the first of these islands came to be to apparently escape the Incan bureaucracy. Good old tax evasion at its finest.

In any event, on our bus ride to Puno we met a Peruvian fella named Fernando - a self employed tour organizer. He told us he could get us to the islands and back for a meagre 28soles each (1 sole equals almost R4), but that we would have to pay the families of the islands ourselves for food and accommodation - which would not be more than 30 soles each, for dinner, bed and breakfast included. He was very professional and organized and through him be also booked our 6hour bus trip the next day to Arequipa for 40 soles each. All the while we (or at least I) got a 'something is not quite right' feeling from this Fernando fellow, but it was all quickly dispelled by te smooth sailing and organization we experienced till we got to the islands. There the tour guide (actual tour guide, not Fernando) told us that these islands are built and float on the rootsystems of a water based grass or reed and that each island can 'live' for up to 30 years before they have to replace the floating root system that keeps it afloat.

We were the only Gringos (South American slang for Tourists) who wanted to stay for the night. It was at this point that we were introduced to a man whose name who I have expelled from my memory for fear of succumbing to pure dispisal and loathing. There are few things in this life which I despise more than people cheating me while there is nothing I can do about it. As soon as out boat pulled away this slimy man infromed us that accommodation would be 30 soles, but that dinner and breakfeast would be an additional 33 SOLES!? I was immensely close to jumping back in the water and swimming after the boat. Either that or actively fasting to to give this greedy man the biggest middle finger of his wretched life. We payed. Dinner was a measly and ill looking trout with undercooked rice and at breakfeast we were treated to coffee and ONE slice of toast with ONE egg.

When we got back to the main land Will and I tried our very best to get our 33 soles money back from Fernando, but he said he was very sorry but that there was nothing he could do about it. The tour companies do not work in conjunction with the islanders. He called up the greediest man on earth, yelled at him and told us to write the island a bad review on the internet. Which I did. No one actively cheats me out of money, with my knowledge and has the last say. I went through the trouble of Signing up for tripadvisor and wrote my first ever review filled with all the bile and fury I could muster, which was significant.

Fernando however would have one final weasely trick/con to play on us before we left. For his final swan song he actually booked us on the most local bus he could find (undoubtedly pocketing at least 15 of the 40 soles we payed him). The bus was jammed packed with locals, had no ventilation and was, and this is the best part, leaking rainwater into the compartment and onto my right shoulder. I spent 2 of the 6 hour bus in a rain jacket. Señor Fernando didn't even have the decency to put us in seats which had actual leg space, never mind room. He put us right at the front of the bus were we spent a cramped 6hrs wondering if our legs would still retain their functionality. Poor Will and Ad, both of them are 193 and 195cm respectively.

We finnaly got to Arequipa and booked into our 2nd Wild Rover hostal

Bolivian Wildfire

LaPaz went by in a blaze. On my and Will's first night we had a reunion with the fabled and mythic Brits brothers and their Australian counterparts. We had a very heartfelt and toasty reunion at 'The English' pub in LaPaz. They had also booked us in with them on the infamous 'Death Road' - Which anyone who has whatched Top Gear, will know what I am referring to! A staggering 64km downhill mountain biking blitz from a height of 4600m down to 900m. Our tourguides were very good and made sure we all had the proper kit and protective gear. The first 10km was down a very steep, but properly paved road. The next 54km was on a proper unpaved, gravel, deathish road... But none of this mattered, because as soon as 7 MEN come together, they tend to forget all about grievous bodily harm and imminent death and instead tend to focus on who can go fastest around the next bend. This proved true, true and true angain as we hurtled down the world's most dangerous road at speeds of 35-40km/h always pushing they guy right in front of you and being harried by the guy behind you. About halfway down I hit a loose rock and fell side ways over my bike at breaking speed. I was unhurt luckily and about 5mins later the younger BritBrother, Harry, followed in my example and tumbled head over heels onto the gravel. He was scraped badly but also without major injury. At the end of the track we were greeted with a swimming pool and a buffet lunch.

The next day was spent recovering from the previous day and indeed night's tom-foolery. I also coincidentally was in the right place to help move an organ in the nearby church/cathedral! The day after that I abseiled down a 17storey building in a spiderman outfit. Will, Freddie Newton (the britsbrother who had that day ascended a 6000m mountain), Ad and I went out for mexican food and then once more to the 'English pub' for a couple of rounds. Afterwards we went back to the Wild Rover bar and hostel where we continued our shenanigans.

Thursday we went to Copacabana. The gateway town to the most revered and sacred Incan Religious site. The island itself was beautiful and should be a stopover for any Bolivian traveler. We spent the night in a hostel at R60 per person per night. The town is on a steep hill overlooking the 'harbour' which at waterlevel is already 3800m above sealevel. A 200m ascent with backpacks on is no small accomplishment. The whole of the island is terraformed into ancient Incan terraces, which are still farmed to this day by the local people. We navigated our way down these vertical farms down to the lake shore where we had a swim in the crystal clear waters of Lake Titicaca.